Uganda: Murchison Falls Section of The White Nile |
I'm not really sure why I even nodded, it was a kind of involuntary reaction that my head had gotten into over the years when people asked me to go on a kayaking trip. But as my head was rolling forward and then back and committing my body, my brain was going into overdrive and screaming. I wouldn't be surprised if my pulse accelerated a little as well.
So as the voice in my head was saying 'say no, tell them you've got a sore pectoral, that you have to...., anything just don't agree to this', my mouth was very foolishly saying 'Yes'.
What I'd just committed to was the 3rd ever kayak decent of The Murchison Falls section of Uganda's White Nile.
These are the facts. While this is 80kms of some of the largest white water in the world it is marginally complicated by the fact that you have to share that water with Hippo's and crocodiles, an estimated 80,000 hippos in fact.
I'd heard horror stories from the first couple of trips, crocs snapping at raft paddles and hippos charging at rafts. Bingo, owner of Nile River Expeditions and a veteran of this section very charitably showed me footage of them being tailed by a crocodile on this stretch, The crocodile is so close that the video picks up flies on it's eyelids.
So, why bother?
A very reasonable question.
My friends Pete and Hendri (firebrandx.net) had just completed the first ever full descent of the Nile from Lake Victoria in Uganda to The Mediterranean, a 6900km and three month journey.
Here was the hook, of that whole escapade their favourite section was the 80 km's through The Murchison Falls National Park and they were eager to get back.
They described it as some of the most spectacular water they'd ever seen, when I asked about the wildlife they always started, 'well it is a risk... but it's worth it'.
That was how we found ourselves at the put in on a humid and sweaty day in the middle of November 2004.
The Put in for the Murchison Falls Section from Karuma Bridge: Image Seth Warren.
I don't imagine I'll ever find a more intimidating access point. 
The bridge here forms the border between Southern Uganda and the brutal civil war in the North of the country.
Just upstream of the bridge in the only pool we could see 4 hippos grazed in the shallows before the water
barrelled away into a rapid that charged underneath the bridge at an estimated half million Cubic Feet per second.
Our perceived safety buffers from the wildlife were being in The White Water and being accompanied by an
16ft raft. Within 5 kms we'd snapped 3 of 4 Oars, a combination of a batch of bad Oars and demanding white water leaving us up Murchison Creek without, well, you get the idea...
It will probably be the most epic river trip I'll ever do and is an appropriate climax to the Film.
Even after you finish the class 5 lines you never relax because of the Hippo's lurking below, a popped
spray deck would be potentially lethal.
This section of the film has the size rapids that you'd expect from one of my productions but is made
unique by footage of Hippos swimming through the class 5 White Water.
It has to be seen to be believed.